The Stolpersteine Project

As we toured cities on the Rhine River, we came across little memorials embedded in the sidewalk. Our tour guide in Strasbourg, France, explained that they were stolpersteines or “stumbling stones,” placed there to commemorate the lives of Jews, Sinti and Roma, politically persecuted people, homosexuals, Jehovah’s Witnesses and euthanasia victims of National Socialism

The little memorials were conceived by artist Gunter Demnig in the early 1990s. They are placed in front of homes where the Nazis captured persecuted persons and sent them to concentration camps. Each stolpersteine begins with the words “Here lived” and provides information about the person being memorialized. In the case of Alfred Toczek, below, he was deported in 1941 and sent to Mauthausen, a Nazi concentration camp in Austria.

As of August 2024, the project had placed over 107,000 stones in nearly 1,900 municipalities in Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Germany, Finland, France, Greece, Great Britain, Ireland, Italy, Croatia, Latvia, Lithuania, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Norway, Poland, the Republic of Moldova, Romania, Russia, Sweden, Switzerland, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, the Czech Republic, Ukraine, and Hungary.

We came across a few stolpersteines in Strasbourg and Koblenz, but saw them more frequently in Amsterdam, where we spent several days.

Jurriaan Haak and Henriette Haak Van Eek were taken by the Nazis in 1943 when they were in the 50s. They were sent initially to the Vught concentration camp in the north of the Netherlands. Vught was a transit camp from which Dutch Jews were sent to extermination camps. Jurriaan was sent to Sachsenhausen; Henriette was sent to Reichenbach.

In some instances the Nazis moved quickly to kill the persons they arrested. Two members of the Messias family were captured in Amsterdam on November 4, 1943. Both were in their 70s and were murdered in Auschwitz fifteen days later, on November 19, 1943. At their age, the Nazis had little use for them. Mary Messias successfully avoided capture and survived.

This sidewalk in front of this house at 43 Jacob Obrechtstraat in Amsterdam has nine stolpersteines, including six memorializing members of the De Hoop family.

Members of the De Hoop family were captured in Amsterdam on February 6, 1943 and put to death in Aushwitz six days later.

In places where hundreds of stolpersteines would need to be placed. the project lays a stolperschwelle, or stumbling threshold, that memorializes the group. Fifty stolperschwellen have been placed, although we did not come upon any of them.

For more information about the Stolpersteine Project you can go to its website.

Our Lord in the Attic, Amsterdam

On a recent visit to Amsterdam, I toured the Our Lord in the Attic museum. Our Lord in the Attic is a Catholic Church that was established in 1663 in the home of a wealthy merchant when, during the Protestant Reformation, it was illegal for Catholics to practice their religion publicly. The church was one of several “schuilkerks” or “clandestine churches” that were forbidden, but tolerated, by the local government in Amsterdam. The church occupies the top three floors of the canal house and includes a residence for the priest.

Here is a model of the house.

The main entrance to the house looks out on the canal and the street.

A stair way leads up to the families living quarters.

The parlor is a remarkable room, reflecting the wealth of the merchant.

Because of the perspective of the lens, the two photos of the parlor, above, make the room appear much larger than it was. The view below from the side more accurately shows the proportions of the room.

The size of the sanctuary surprised me, with seating on the main floor of the church and in the balconies.

The church has its own pipe organ, evidence, I think that the church was tolerated. I am sure when the organist played the hymns, the sound reverberated beyond the walls of the house.

From a window in the room behind the altar, one can see the steeple of Oude Kerk (Old Church), a Reformed church in Amsterdam. The oldest structure in Amsterdam, the church building was consecrated in 1306 as a Roman Catholic church. It became a Reformed church after the Reformation in 1578.

The robes of the priest who resided above the Our Lord in the Attic church.

The priest’s bedroom.

Amsterdam Canals

My Lightroom catalog has thousands of photographs that I took on a river cruise down the Rhine last year. I haven’t shared them on my blog because they are mostly record shots made to help us remember our trip. They were taken on the go, often with my cellphone rather than my DSLR. I visit them often in my catalog, though, and think it is about time to share some of them.

We spent four days in Amsterdam. I rose early in the morning and walked among the canals taking photos. It was quite peaceful in the morning. We took a canal tour in the evening, but it didn’t measure up to simply walking along the canals. Here’s a few snapshots from my walks.